Jessica Lomax on the New Shape of Big Ideas
Wie Suite Woman
February 14, 2025
Jess Lomax is a visionary creative director at the intersection of innovation, sport, and fashion, driven by the transformative power of design.

As the Chief Design Officer at Calvin Klein, Lomax leads the design vision and sets the global creative direction for the brand across all categories, including RTW, denim, close-to-body, accessories, footwear, home, and fragrance. In this role, she has launched new lines such as womenswear and sport, established collaborations with Heron Preston, Palace, and Nensi Dojaka, overseen the atelier, pioneered an elevated studio collection, as well as directing red carpet bespoke dressing for many events, including the Met Gala.

Previously she served as the Creative Director of Nike Womens Sportswear Apparel, where she spearheaded the global creative direction for women's lifestyle apparel, establishing a strong fashion point of view for the world of sport for the brand. A passionate advocate for women in sport, she served as a spokesperson for the brand, driving collaborations with Sacai, design for the Rio and Tokyo Olympics, and the women’s World Cup. Originally from the UK, and a graduate of Istituto Marangoni London, she has also designed for Adidas, Alexander McQueen, Aquascutum and Hussein Chalayan, including his collaboration with Puma.

What is happening in fashion design at the moment that excites you? And, what do you think this indicates for other industries?

Right now, what I’m really interested in is building ‘the world of’ an idea. What I love about this is that it can manifest in different ways — physical spaces, partnerships, scents, soundtracks, film, visual language…as well as through clothing design or a show. The younger designers that I work with don’t feel as held back by tradition but see different ways to explore and express their ideas. This can lead to interdisciplinary ways to express the core idea, finding more ways to connect with real people in different situations. And it also allows for different perspectives. I believe that building these worlds for ideas is creating new means of self-expression and community in fashion, and across wider culture.

What hurdles do you see for the fashion industry in 2025?

The pace at which culture evolves now, whether technology, entertainment, climate, society. It feels so fast today, and we know it will only speed up from tomorrow. In this changing landscape, I think it’s important to be even clearer on who you are at the core, rather than being too swayed by the constant micro-shifts along the way. For example, creating something timeless can be timely. The hurdle is how to stay true to your DNA, your history, but also keep up with the pace of tomorrow.

What opportunities do you see for the fashion industry in the coming year?

The industry will always react to what is happening in culture. In the 60s, in response to mass consumerism, the minimalist movement was born. Nowadays, one of the biggest cultural shifts is the creation of fast-paced mass content. As we move forward, I can see an opportunity for the industry to respond to this through subtraction. Fewer, bigger ideas. Fewer, but more meaningful quality products. I took a lot of inspiration from Picasso who could create a powerful image with just a single pen stroke. The discipline of reducing an idea to its purest form without losing its impact.

Where do you pull inspiration for your designs?

I’m inspired by real people in my life, whether a close friend or a stranger on the subway. People wear clothes for fundamental physical and emotional feelings — for warmth, for protection, to feel free, to feel a part of something larger, to express their creativity, to say something or nothing, or just as a response to how they felt when they first woke up. Seeing how people live their lives, what they need in their day, how they want to look, and how they want to feel. Thinking about the clothes as an expression of a person in movement, moving through a day, through a life.

Do you have one secret to your success?

Finding the balance between believing in myself (knowing when to trust my gut and take leaps of faith), and believing in others (knowing when I don’t know the answer, collaboration is everything).

Who is a woman you admire?

There are so many women that I admire that it’s hard to say just one. I have had the honor of dressing many incredible women that I admire, and it’s been inspiring to try to understand someone and how they want to express themself, especially at big moments in their lives. Again, clothes as an expression of a person in a moment. Designing for Brittney Griner for the Met Gala was a real privilege, especially reflecting on the cultural context that she was inhabiting at the time, taking inspiration from what she stood for in the world. And working with FKA Twigs. I went to an exhibition she put on in London recently, and seeing how her authenticity and message moves across so many different genres, from music to dance to art was so inspiring.

What’s one thing you can’t live without?

I always have a sports bra in my purse! Working out is my therapy, but I never know when I can fit it in with my schedule. My sports bra is the one thing I cannot workout without, so it comes everywhere with me.

What is one big trend you’re excited about in 2025?

Longevity. Living a long life and a big life. I think of life as a marathon not a sprint. I want to create things that can last the test of time — clothes, products, messages, worlds, that can remedy inertia, that can make us think in decades not days, macro over micro trends, and big picture over the little things.

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